Berlin

Sister cities (3) Capitals

Capital cities can be divided in two kinds: those that have become capitals by the sheer force of the reality (even if they are not political capitals, as New York, which is only the capital of its county, a tricky thing to explain as this just covers Manhattan), and those which have become capitals by the force of a law giving that condition to a piece of land in a moment of political compromise, even if later they can become a different thing. It is too early to judge what will Brasilia become, but Madrid is a good example of the second kind in the XVIth century, as Washington and Berlin are for the XVIIIth century. The interesting thing is to which extent being a capital creates interesting urban spaces, and also if a city is really fit to go beyond that first “bureaucratic” dimension.

Madrid appears in history as a muslim hamlet at the border with the kingdom of Castille in the IXth century. Over time a small city appears, much less important than Segovia or Toledo. In 1561 Philip II decides to install the capital in Madrid and, but for 1601 to 1605 and a short time during the 1936-1939 civil war, the city remains the Spanish capital. A central position in the country and the lack of strong local powers, which was not the case for other Castillian cities, seem to have been relevant reasons. Madrid does not become an architectural project with a visible geometry, but it consolidates some elements which dominate the landscape: the cornice over the Manzanares, the Royal Palace and the Buen Retiro Palace (today just the park remains), or the Casa de Campo. The central role of the city in the Spanish urban system (as far as non-government elements) becomes evident only after 1939; the first years of Franco rule were marked by monumental plans which were economically unfeasible. From 1980 to 2007 there has been a strong growth, but without a visible overall urban project. Today Madrid is not a rich city (it has a strong public debt, among other reasons due to the costs of burying the M30 beltway under the Manzanares), but it is still the largest and one of the most dynamic metropolitan areas in Spain.

Washington appears as there is a need to give to the Union a capital which is not subject to one of the member States, on land acquired from the state of Maryland. Here urbanism appears as a central element in the personality of the city, with a baroque plan by L’Enfant on a scale that Europe had seen only in royal gardens. Even if the true economic capitals are in other cities of the Atlantic Megalopolis running from Washington to Boston, and mainly in New York City, its metropolitan area has grown to become one of the most important of the country in economic size. A relevant part of the workforce is made of public employees, and being a capital has also attracted lots of private workforce.

Berlin is a small hamlet until its declaration as the Prussian capital in 1701. Its growth is linked to that of the kingdom and its power in Germany, which shows in an urban core that tries to recreate a classical monumentality. During the XIXth century it also becomes an industrial city. Prior to WWII Albert Speer plans to make the city the capital of the world, with incredible urban scales. After the war, the western part becomes an enclave which is separated from the historical urban core; west Berlin loses the role of capital to Bonn, while east Berlin struggles to be the capital of a much smaller country and rebuild, despite monumental attempts as Karl- Marx Allée. Reunification brings back the city integrity, to become a city that is “poor but sexy”, as mayor Klaus Wolvereit says; the city is surrounded by eastern states that still struggle to rebuild.

Streets for Marx and Kutuzov

Karl-Marx Allée from Straussberg Platz

Karl-Marx Allée from Straussberg Platz

As an answer to the post on Avenue Foch I have received an interesting mail from my friend Vadim Litovchenko, showing similarities and differences with the Kutuzovskaiya Prospekt in Moscow (the entry to the city from the Minsk Motorway). This has reminded Karl-Marx Allée in Berlin, that I visited two years ago. In both cases, showcases for the Stalinist urbanism of the 1950s. But as always, I’m not here to talk politics (both street have survived regime changes and they will probably do it again in the next centuries), but about how space is determined by some design ideas. Besides, I’m more fond on Groucho than on Karl.

Karl-Marx Allée: 3,44 km of triumphant way towards Poland

Karl-Marx Allée: 3,44 km of triumphant way towards Poland

Kutuzovskaiya prospekt: 3,75 km of access up to the banks of the Moskva

Kutuzovskaiya prospekt: 3,75 km of access up to the banks of the Moskva

Both cases are just huge; both streets are over 3 km long and 100 m wide. Kutuzovskaiya (honoring Marshal Kutuzov, the defender of Moscow against Napoleon) has substantially more cars, but what was relevant for design was the relation between volumes and perspective (and with a 100 m wide street this asks for high volumes); both cases show axis that are not straight (a departure from Avenue Foch), with elements that distort the linearity of that space, as the exchange with Moscow’s third beltway of the gigantic Straussberg Platz. But anyway there are spaces by the buildings that are rather pleasant in Moscow, and the images and story told by Vadim show a similar situation in Moscow (a city I have never visited).

The issue is not whether these streets are freeways or not (Avenue Foch was not one, I just sometimes force a bit the reasoning), but if they are still streets as a unitary space. They are finally large linear spaces in which different legibility scales are overlapped, with subsequent use experiences, marked by the definition of vegetation and lateral alleys.

Near Straussberg Platz in Berlin

Near Straussberg Platz in Berlin

The central lanes of Kutuzovskaiya

The central lanes of Kutuzovskaiya

The sidewalks of Karl-Marx Allée

The sidewalks of Karl-Marx Allée

The lateral alleys of Kutuzovskaiya

The lateral alleys of Kutuzovskaiya

Non-year round occupied housing (4) Germany

vacias alemania

 

Vacant housing in Germany concentrates mainly in the Eastern states (former Democratic Republic) and in some western rural areas. According to data from the Federal Institute for Research on Building, Urban Affairs and Spatial Development (BBSR), but for some exceptions the vacant homes ratio is under 10%, and the most often under 5%; the ratio is under 2,5% in Hamburg, and under 5% in Berlin. But the notes joining the map make me suspect that these ratios are not fully comparable to those used in other countries due to methodological issues. Anyway, demographics make for a future increase in the ratio.

World Heritage (5) Berlin

A view of the Cathedral dome, included in the site's buffer zone

A view of the Cathedral dome, included in the site’s buffer zone

The Museuminsel (Island of the museums) is inscribed to the World Heritage list in 1999. The inscription is justified by the values of the set of museums, illustrating the evolution of the modern museums for more than a century, and by the role of the museum as a social phenomenon, coming from illustration and opened to the wider public after the French revolution; the Museuminsel is considered the most outstanding example of this concept given material form and a symbolic central urban setting.

The five museums which compose the protected site are conceived by the site Management Plan, directed by the British architect David Chipperfield, as a unit, but looking to maintain the architectural independence of each one. The forecast is for a increase in the number of visitors, from 1,5 million visitors to 3 million mid-term.

The Plan defines an archeological promenade linking the collections of the Bode, Pergamon, Neues and Altes Museums at 0 level. A sequence of halls and courtyards will turn the archeological promenade into an interdisciplinary axis around the monumental architecture of the ancient world. Preexisting colonnades are rebuilt, and there is a new building with a contemporary language, the James Simon- Galerie.

The work on an island (even with ramifications on the neighboring shores), without major use changes, reduces conflicts, but I imagine that the James Simon- Galerie has received its share of criticism. In 2011 I visited the area, and the works were on progress.

Berlin-delimitacion2

Site and buffer zone

Museuminseln-1

Aerial view from the west. On the upper right part you can see the project to rebuild the Royal Palace (out of the protected site)

Museuminseln-2

James Simon Galerie

South of the site was the Democratic Republic parliament, razed after reunification. There are now plans to rebuild the old Royal Palace, a relevant change in the name of a historic memory that few living people still have (the Palace was razed in 1950). The blue building is a temporary exhibition compound for the project

South of the site was the Democratic Republic parliament, razed after reunification. There are now plans to rebuild the old Royal Palace, a relevant change in the name of a historic memory that few living people still have (the Palace was razed in 1950). The blue building is a temporary exhibition compound for the project

What to do on an acre (6)

Two euro- acres: upper image, Plaza de Platerías (A) and Plaza de la Quintana (B), lower image the New national Gallery in Berlin, close to the Sankt Matthaus church (C) and by the Postdamer Strasse (D)

Two euro- acres: upper image, Plaza de Platerías (A) and Plaza de la Quintana (B) in Santiago de Compostela, Spain, and lower image the New national Gallery in Berlin, close to the Sankt Matthaus church (C) and by the Postdamer Strasse (D)

An acre can be an opened or a close surface, or something in between. The squares around the eastern flank of the Cathedral of Santiago are the result of a set of circunstances: a complex natural slope, the previous presence of a cemetery, the presence of monastic buildings… This makes for a set of spaces enclosed by strong institutions, which have grown in power throught time with a magnificent architecture, whose expresion has sometimes been baroque, and in other moments quite austere, with new proposals in the interiors like the fine project by BMJ for Casa da Conga.

Plaza de la Quintana from the North

Plaza de la Quintana from the North

In Berlin, on the other side, the combined surface of both Spanish squares is covered by … well, a square slab, supported on eight steel columns (the building has a larger basement, but it is scarcely visible from the outside, its presence resting on the upper part). The building, by the great master Mies Van der Rohe, is a space whose enclosure is defined first by the large slab itself, and also by a glass curtain on an inner position. There are no obstacles to view the outside and, for instance, Sankt Matthaus church, the Philarmonie or the Sony Plaza. When I visited the Galerie in 2011, it was empty but for a large cylindrical installation. The building is elegant in proportions, but so nude of ornament that any rust mark or any reminder of the complexity of reality is simply too apparent. Opose that to the Santiago squares, all with a granite which has suffered the passage of time. As in the case of the large ships carrying oil derricks, this a matter of a play of spaces and scale relations, in each case with a different result.

The Berlin Galerie as seen from Postdamer Strasse

The Berlin Galerie as seen from Postdamer Strasse

Platerías looking to the North

Platerías looking to the North

The Sankt Matthaus Church as seen from the Galerie

The Sankt Matthaus Church as seen from the Galerie

The outer skin of the Galerie. A clean architecture, with a slender yet imposing column... accompanied by an ashtray/bin (thank god, at least black)

The outer skin of the Galerie. A clean architecture, with a slender yet imposing column… accompanied by an ashtray/bin (thank god, at least black)

The northern part of Quintana

The northern part of Quintana

Your empty space to play with

Your empty space to play with

A view towards the east from Platerias

A view towards the east from Platerias

Urban retail (11) Berlin

What is a center that has been razed? an urban problem. Alexanderplatz in Berlin was destroyed during WWII, and its rebuilding under the DDR produced a typical 1960s space which was quite far from a historic reconstruction. It is a very open space, but the buildings are not always up to the task (Mediamarkt has made a terrible work…). Some have decided to become more introvert, as Galleria Kaufhaus, a department store. Just to remind you where you are, as in any border area you have signs in the shop in the neighboring language… which here is, as an exotic element for a spaniard, polish…

Galleria Kaufhof on AlexanderPlatz (red color is not the real one...)

Galleria Kaufhof on AlexanderPlatz (red color is not the real one…)

The dome over the central space of the department store

The dome over the central space of the department store

The escalators under the central dome

The escalators under the central dome

Urban retail (5) Department stores

The first department stores seem to have appeared in a more or less simultaneous manner in France and Britain at the beginning of the XIXth century, as a way to catter to an urban elite that was growing in purchasing power with the industrial revolution. This context is well described by Emile Zola in “Au bonheur des dames”, a depiction of the inner life of an early department store. In many cases the first department stores began in small buildings and grew in an organical manner colonizing entire blocks, and even adjacent blocks, something that can still be felt today when going through the departments you find odd level changes.

Printemps-2

Le Printemps, Paris

In terms of urban impact, the department store means a mighty concentration of sales capacity in an usually small area, located in the most central parts of the city (indeed, contributing to the creation of such centralities or to their demise when they flee), and integrated in the general pedestrian and public transportation system. Even if in America it is common to see such establishments in suburban malls, in Europe (in part due to a certain difficulty in some countries for the format to adapt to new settings) it is still a central city bussiness, and in Japan their link to main rail stations is clear.

Lafayette- berlin

Galleries Lafayette, Berlin

This stacking of shopping areas under a single operator in a much more integrated way than in any mall is also relevant. It means that the image towards the city must be well defined to endure the test of time. The french examples asume that creating large façades that simulate windows (not always visible from the sales floor), but El Corte Inglés, in Spain, has dotted the country with façades that show no visible windows but for small areas. Even in their recent building in Pamplona, by Martinez Lapeña- Torres, with an interesting elevation (albeit compared by some to a cheese grater), just the penthouse cafeteria is clearly visible (and the street level displays, no doubt…).

El Corte Inglés, Pamplona

El Corte Inglés, Pamplona

Lafayette berlin-1

Galleries Lafayette, Berlin

In many examples the idea of scenic building core spaces is relevant, but it is not always the case. Be it domes, iron architecture, glass, a combination of all of or part of the above… in time terms, sometimes these spaces have been fragmented as not to compete for the atention of the shoppers…

Printemps-1

Le Printemps, Paris

Urban retail (4) Streets

Kurfürstendam, Berlin; a top retail location with major franchises

Kurfürstendam, Berlin; a top retail location with major franchises

Even if this seems self-evident, it is not always that true when talking about urban planning: the street is a space with its own rules in terms of retail. The pedestrian’s perception (or the perception by motorists) is marked by that logic of motion, and usually the location of shops of different specialities (and therefore, different profit margins) is organised according to the visibility or accesibility provided by each street. On a wide avenue you will have usually higher rents, and higher profit margin shops (apparel, department stores…), while other retailers or services (small restaurants, the showroom of a wholesale textile firm) will be on secondary streets. On urban cores beyond a certain size the retail activities generally organize in “blurbs”, but each kind of store (and each quality range) occupies specific locations, and the street becomes an organizing system.

Republic Street, the main axis in the historical core of La Valleta

Republic Street, the main axis in the historical core of La Valleta

A small convenience shop in a secondary street in La Valleta

A small convenience shop in a secondary street in La Valleta

 

Domes (2)

St Hedwig Cathedral in Berlin

Showing the ability to build implies doing what is most complex at each moment and place, and the dome can become a full sphere, or a different thing. But scale is still important, so much more than shape…

The communist-built tv tower (no more communist, but still a tv tower) and the nearby church

Angie’s domains in Berlin